In some cases, installing posts for a deck above a driveway or a court calls for cutting the blacktop to install the footing and post anchor. Re: Asphalt in fence post holes Same principle- gravel will compact around and hold fence posts, reserve the concrete for gate posts. Before you install a fence, ask yourself what your reason is for white picket fence is quintessential, but before you buy wood posts and.
Fence post on blacktop - join
Fencing Installation Tips From the Pros
Install Your Fence Like a Pro
Installing a new fence doesn’t always require a professional contractor to get the job done. More complicated fencing – like hardwood fences and mixed material fences – should involve a professional, but if you plan to install a basic fence, it’s a relatively simple DIY procedure – if you have the right tools, the right materials, and a predetermined plan.
Once your fence posts are in the ground, there are no do-overs. That’s why it’s important to learn as much as you can about the process before you get started. Your fence installation plan will differ depending on the size or your fence, the materials you plan to use, and your personal preference for style. You may not need a pro to install your fence, but you can always use some professional advice.
The following Pro-Tips will help you get your fence installation right the first time.
Quick Set Your Posts
The most important step in installing your fence is setting the posts level with the ground. After you dig the post holes (which should be about one-third of the height of your post for a standard 4” post), it’s time to mix cement. Traditional cement mixing can take a while – and requires you to then hold your post in place until the concrete dries. If you slip up, or the lean the post in the wrong direction, you could ruin the entire project.
That’s why it’s best to use fast-setting concrete instead of traditional concrete. With fast setting concrete, you simply pour the mixture into the hole around your post and add water. The concrete will set in around 20 minutes, and you’ll be on to the next fence post. But be careful – you have a very short window to adjust your posts, and no time for do overs. Your timing here will be key to success.
Water is the enemy of wood. Prolonged exposure to water can and will rot your wooden fence posts even if they are pressure treated. Sprinkling gravel at the bottom of the fence post hole creates a natural filtration system that helps drain water away from your wooden post, and into the ground, ensuring that your post does not sit submerged in water after rains.
Dip Your Posts
Sealing your fence post with an asphalt emulsion dip can extend its life by years. Asphalt emulsion combines asphalt, water, and an emulsifying agent to create a protective layer on top of the wood, sealing off its pores from intruding moisture and insects. Dip the bottom of your posts with asphalt emulsion until the mixture reaches slightly above the concrete line and all the way below the soil line. Asphalt emulsion can help any wood last longer – including pressure treated lumber.
The Third Rail
One of the choices you’ll make when building a fence is how many rails to use. Fewer rails give you a better view, but stability is job one. The best practice for a six-foot fence is to use three rails. While the number of rails needed for a structurally sound fence can vary depending on length and materials, using three rails will almost always get the job done.
Use Quality Hardware
Too often, homeowners build fences with cheap hardware to cut costs. In the long run, your fence will end up costing you more if you use budget hardware because you’ll need to replace it every few years. Always use either galvanized or stainless steel fence hardware, which will protect from rust or stress induced failure. Galvanized and stainless steel fence hardware also protect your fence from “bleeding” – staining that occurs when the tannins in the wood mix with metal.
Staining the wood on your fence has numerous benefits: You can create the shade and tone that you want, you’ll increase the wood’s longevity by filling the wood pores to protect it from water and insects, and you can give your fence a fresh stain every few years to keep it looking rich and new. Painting your fence is a good option as well. Like a stain, paint will seal off and protect your wood. You’ll also have a wide array of colors to choose from, allowing you to match your fence to any part of your home, or simply to your own creative idea.
Get the Neighbors to Help Pay For it!
If you are building a fence that straddles both you and your neighbor’s property, get them to help pay for it! You’ll both enjoy the benefits of the new fence, and you’ll both get a little privacy as well. For shared yards, you can install a “good neighbor” fence, which looks the same on both sides, so no one gets the short end of the stick.
Have questions on how to build your fence? J&W Lumber can help. Visit our website or drop by one of our showrooms, and we’ll help you build the finest fence in the neighborhood!
10 Things to Know Before You Build a Fence
Before you install a fence, ask yourself what your reason is for installing it. If it’s strictly utilitarian — keeping the dog in the yard — you can probably get by with a basic chain-link fence. If you’re looking to block noise or add privacy, you will want something tall and solid. Chances are your wishes are complex: You want to protect pets, but you also want to add a decorative element to your home’s exterior. Whatever its purpose, a fence can function in many ways, but the first step is deciding what you’re looking for to choose one that works for you.
A white picket fence is quintessential, but before you buy wood posts and whitewash, think about the commitment you’re making. Wood fences may require occasional staining or sealing and can warp and rot over time. Consider a low-maintenance material, such as vinyl, that offers the look of wood without the elbow grease. Other material options include aluminum, steel, wrought iron, and bamboo.
If cost is an issue, mix different types of fences. Wood picket fencing could be placed at the front of the home, for example, connecting to chain link fencing in the back. No only will this combination fence potentially save installation costs, but it also will reduce the amount of fence that might require repainting.
Inquire with homeowners or neighborhood associations and municipal building code officials regarding covenants that dictate fencing look, height, and material. City and neighborhood rules may specify the better-looking side of a fence (the side that doesn’t show posts and rails) be placed toward the public face of the property. Ask how far a fence has to be set back from sidewalks and property lines, and find out if your fence project will require a building permit.
Landscaping can be used to protect your home from weather and views and to mark property lines. Remember, local building codes and neighborhood fence rules may cover such living walls. Additionally, you’ll need to ensure that planted materials don’t overgrow such restrictions in the future.
Are Oz-Post® as strong as concrete?
Oz-Post® have been tested to high levels of horizontal forces and have been proven to be more than suitable for the majority of fencing and sign projects. A fence or sign constructed as recommended using Oz-Post® will be equally as strong as traditional concrete installation. A post placed in a standard 6”-8” post hole with one or two bags of concrete takes minimum of a ½ an hour to install. (not to mention a day to dry) This method is not any stronger than an Oz-Post® installed by one person in four minutes. Independent testing has proven that the weakest part of almost any fence installation is the wooden or metal post. This also holds true for an Oz-Post® installation. Testing has shown that the post will break or bend before the Oz-Post® fails. Of course Oz-Post® and 6”-8” post holes with concrete are not suitable for all fence designs or all signs but most standard fence designs and signs allowed by city councils can be installed with the Oz-Post® system. If you have any questions on the suitability of the Oz-Post® system for your next project feel free to call our customer service department for more information. There are fences, signs and many other projects all over North America that have stood the test of time. Many have been subjected to extreme conditions like the recent hurricanes in the gulf region.
How high can I go?
The maximum height of your fence has more to do with post spacing than your foundation. We recommend 6’ post spacing for a 8’ tall fence and 8’ spacing for a 6’ tall wood privacy fence. Other styles of fences like chain link, vinyl and ornamental simply follow the manufacturers recommended post spacing
What size and type should I use?
The size and style of Oz-Post® is determined by post materials that you intend to use. For some post sizes Oz-Post® offers several different styles for various applications. A good rule of thumb is to use the longest Oz-Post® that can be easily driven into the ground. The more firm and compacted the ground is the shorter Oz-Post® you will require. If you have a special application that you would like to use the Oz-Post® for let us know we more than likely have a special model for your needs. Note: the numbers at the end of the product name is the length in mm of the post. Many post sizes are offered in short and long lengths for example the T4-850 and T4-600 both accept the same size wood post but they are different lengths. The T4-850 is 34” long and the T4-600 is 24” long.
What happens if I hit Rock?
The Oz-Post® becomes an extension of your jackhammer. As a result it will break through loose shale and some rock. Smaller boulders will be pushed aside as the Oz-Post® penetrates the ground. You may need to straighten the assembly a few times as the Oz-Post® hits and deflects small boulders. Large solid bedrock and boulders cannot be penetrated by Oz-Post® without performing additional preparation to the ground. In these extreme cases you will have to move the hole, or try a shorter or tapered Oz-Post® or pre-drill a hole in the rock with a hammer drill, or use a chisel bit with the jackhammer to break up the underground obstruction. Remember a bobcat or post-hole auger will not penetrate most of the softer rock, asphalt or concrete that Oz-Post® can easily handle. Both Oz-Post® and traditional methods will not penetrate solid rock without specialized equipment or site preparation!
Can Oz-Posts® be removed?
Yes, Oz-Post® can be extracted if they are placed in the wrong spot, the fence needs moving, or they are only temporary. In lightly compacted soil conditions you can remove Oz-Post® by using a 6’ long pry bar. Place the pry bar under the housing, and using a piece of wood or a concrete building block placed approximately 10” from the Oz-Post® you can lever the post out of the ground. If this fails your Oz-Post® distributor can sell or rent an Oz-Puller™ to make this process much easier.
What if the ground becomes water logged?
Ground soil will expand and contract depending upon the water saturation levels. This is a natural property of ground soil and cannot be avoided. Due to the large surface area of the Oz-Post® fins there is a high level of adhesion of the soil onto the Oz-Post®. This helps to give Oz-Post® their lateral strength and support. Where the ground is very water logged you may notice some increased movement in your fence, as the ground dries this deflection in your fence will decrease back to usual levels. It should be noted that these effects and properties are also evident when constructing a fence using concrete.
How does wood shrinkage effect Oz-Post®?
Shrinkage in wood is a natural property, as moisture is absorbed and evaporated from the timber. This is not a concern as the Oz-Post® housing fully encapsulates the timber post and also allows for drainage. It is recommended that the hardware be tightened 2-6 months after installation to assure the tightest possible connection. The use of a small amount of polyurethane glue is a great option to allow for a strong connection without the need to re-tighten the screws. Please review installation instructions for the model that you are installing for all installation options. Shrinkage is a far greater problem when considering posts that have been secured using concrete. As the timber shrinks (the concrete does not) a concrete container is created which inevitably will hold water, thus your timber post becomes submerged until the water drains, a great environment for fungal decay. This is one of the reasons why posts rot out before the fence pickets and rails. Oz-Post® protect the wood posts from premature rot because they drain well and separate the wood from the soil.
What about Frost?
Oz-Post® perform excellent in both warm and cold climates. Frost is a force that can easily ruin any kind of post installation that is not done correctly. In areas that experience below freezing conditions evidence of damage caused by frost is easy to spot and very common. The best and easiest solution for this problem is Oz-Post®! Posts that have been installed with post holes and concrete can be “heaved” out of the ground by the freezing and thawing of the surrounding soil. If the buried concrete has rough sides frost can grab the post and heave it out of alignment and eventually completely out of the ground if it is left unattended. To assure that the concrete has smooth sides it is recommended that paperboard sleeves like “sono-tubes®” be inserted in the augured hole to produce smooth sides and help prevent movement from frost. The use of sono-tubes® is highly recommended for frost prone areas. This adds additional cost to traditional installations that should be considered when comparing with the Oz-Post® System. In addition to smooth sides it is recommended that the post hole have an enlarged bottom like an upside down mushroom. This technique reduces the likelihood of the post being heaved. This is very time consuming and costly as it increases concrete requirements and removal of excavated soil. WARNING – many fencing contractors and do-it-yourselfers do not install fence posts this way and that is why you can often see crooked fence posts and sign posts throughout your neighborhood. On the contrary the long, wide and smooth fins of an Oz-Post® give the frost nothing to “grab” onto to push it out of the ground. In addition, an Oz-Post® has a generally pointed shape and does not produce a horizontal plain for the shifting/expanding soil to push out of the ground. You can also think of it another way; it is much easier to push a pointed object into the ground (like an Oz-Post®) then it is a blunt object (a wooden post). With frost heaving the exact opposite principle occurs. When the sub-terrain moisture expands from below freezing conditions it can easily push the blunt end of a post and or concrete out of the ground but because an Oz-Post® is pointed with no blunt surfaces frost can’t push it out of the ground. Oz-Post® installations are far less likely to be heaved by the frost compared to the blunt and rough artificial rock that is formed with concrete. In addition to Oz-Post® tremendous long term performance in frost prone areas they can be installed even if the ground is already frozen!
Can Oz-Post® be used on a Gate?
Yes, Oz-Post® can be used for all kinds of gates that would normally be installed with a 6” – 8” post hole and concrete. This includes pedestrian gates up to 5’. If you are installing a gate that requires more strength there are several options you can use to obtain the desired stability. The simplest and possibly most effective method is to double up the posts on the hinge side of the gate. Placing two posts 10” apart will more than double the strength of the gate. Another gate strengthening technique is to join the top of the gate posts together with a header. These techniques are also a standard practice for installing with concrete. Of course if standard practice calls for a 12” or even 24” post hole with concrete then that post will have to be installed in that way. These are not common situations and in most cases will only be 1 or 2 posts on a job. In these situations the post strength is increased with the large surface area in contact with the surrounding soil (large diameter) and the increase in mass of the concrete. A 12” diameter hole will hold at least 8 bags of concrete which is 480 lbs. In addition a much larger and stronger post should be used to take advantage of the increased strength of the foundation. There is no use in digging bigger holes if you do not significantly increase post strength. To take full advantage of the Oz-Post® system we recommend that even if you have to concrete a post in the ground to still use Oz-Post® so that your post will be protected from rot.
Other Applications for Oz-Post®?
If you are considering using Oz-Post® for applications other than those specified in our literature please consult our customer service department. If we do not have a standard unit that is suitable for your needs our custom engineering department may be able to design and manufacture an Oz-Post® to suit your requirements.
How long will they last?
Oz-Post® are covered by a 25 year warranty against rust perforation. Oz-Post® are hot dipped galvanized and under normal conditions will outlast the expected service of the post that they support. Oz-Post® have a much thicker zinc coating than most common steel fence posts available on the market. Oz-Post® are also suitable for use with pressure treated lumber.
Do I need to have my utilities marked?
Yes, the Oz-Post® is driven into the ground 24”–34” and therefore you must call for locations of all utilities. This service is free and can be accessed nationally by calling 811 or your local utility companies.
Has Oz-Post® been tested?
Yes, Oz-Post® have been wind load tested to 120mph on a 6’ high wood privacy fence. The testing report is available in the download section of our web site.
Will Oz-Post® meet building codes?
You may be required to get a building permit in your area to build a fence. Building codes for fence construction generally relate to the height and style of fence that is allowed on your property. Most of these codes are intended to keep uniform standards throughout a community. Other concerns on fence construction are sight lines for drivers and also to prevent land owners from constructing a fence that would be considered an eye sore. Some cities have specifications for post holes for fence construction but most cases they will accept other equivalent alternatives like Oz-Post®. In terms of the “post hole” many cities require certain depths and widths for fence construction. In frost prone areas this is to assure that the post holes are past the frost line to prevent heaving and in high wind areas these regulations are to assure post stability. Because you are NOT digging a hole with Oz-Post® many of these codes do not generally apply. Most inspectors do not have any issues with the use of Oz-Post® because they are specifically designed, tested and engineered for fence construction. Oz-Post® also assures proper installation because it is difficult to “cheat” with Oz-Post®. Many contractors and homeowners do not follow the building code and dig their holes to the proper depth and width. This is the reason that post hole inspections are required for some fence construction projects. This is uncommon and in most cases is limited to commercial/government projects. Post inspections are not required for Oz-Post® because there is no post hole. In some areas especially high wind areas your inspector may request to see the wind load testing that is available for download on our web site. In all situations you should follow your local building code requirements. If your city requires 4’ spacing for fence posts or a maximum height of 6’ you will have to follow those codes. We recommend printing out the specification sheet for the Oz-Post® you are planning to use and include it with your building permit application.
What is an Oz-Hammer™?
Our exclusive Oz-Hammer™ is a high grade steel attachment that fits most common jackhammers. The Oz-Hammer™ transfers vibrating forces of the jackhammer to the Oz-Post®. You may need to get a Hammer-Spacer™ to adapt the Oz-Hammer™ to the Oz-Post® model that you are using. See our web site to determine which Oz-Post® require the Hammer-Spacer™. If you are planning to rent a jackhammer most rental centers have Bosch® Brute or Wacker® 60# electric jackhammers that are perfect for any size job. There are also gas powered jackhammers (Wacker® model BH-23 is one popular brand) that are great for remote locations where power cords or generators would have difficulty reaching. Air operated jackhammers will also work, but are not recommended because they are very heavy and much more difficult to handle. There are many other jackhammer brands and most of them will do the job. To be sure, the main feature that the jackhammer will need is to have a 1 ⅛” hex chisel holder with a retaining collar. Oz-Post® also offers our own Oz-Tools™ brand of jackhammer for those that want to purchase a jackhammer.
What is a Hammer-Spacer™?
The Hammer-Spacer™ is an adapter for the Oz-Hammer™. An appropriate Hammer-Spacer™ is REQUIRED for many Oz-Post® models. Please refer to your specific model to confirm if a spacer is required. You cannot install Oz-Posts that require a Hammer-Spacer™ without one. If you are planning to install your Oz-Post® with a sledgehammer the spacer is recommended for these installations as well.
How Does Oz-Deck™ Foundation System Work?
Oz-Deck™ utilizes the floating deck building technique. Floating deck construction is a similar concept as concrete patio or slab foundation on a house. Patios, slab foundations or drive ways do not have piers in the ground they rely on distributing the weight over a large area to prevent them from sinking in the ground. Oz-Deck™ uses the same principle of spreading the load for the deck over more square inches of earth compared to the alternative method of digging post holes and attaching a ledger to the house. With post holes and ledger construction one side of the deck is attached to the house with a ledger board that is bolted to the home. This requires special attention to assure that the board is properly attached to the home securely. Most deck failures occur because of improper ledger attachment. Oz-Deck™ is different because there is no ledger board required. The deck simply sits tight to the side of the home but is not actually attached to the home. This is why it is called a “floating deck”. With post holes there is a great deal of pressure exerted on the posts because there are less posts compared to Oz-Deck™. This is why it is very important that the piers be installed properly and why many cities require inspections of deck piers. You can understand the concept of a floating deck vs. a pier and ledger deck by thinking about the old trick of a circus performer lying on a bed of nails. If there are hundreds of nails in the board the weight of the performer is distributed over many points of contact and there is no pain or injury. This is similar to a floating deck. Alternatively if the same performer lay on a board with just a few nails he would become seriously injured. This is similar to a post hole and ledger construction. With Oz-Deck™ the construction of your deck is much faster and easier. Simply locate the deck plates where your posts are required and drive the Oz-Post® through them. In areas that do not get frost heave a ledger board can be used in conjunction with Oz-Deck™. The spacing between Oz-Deck™ must still be maintained even if the deck is attached to the home. The fact is that it is faster, easier and better to build a floating deck but there are options to attach your deck to the house if that is required.
Will the Oz-Deck™ Foundation System work on un-leveled ground?
Oz-Deck™ system is ideal for all types of terrain including areas that are un-leveled. There are very few backyards that are level most having a slope away from the home to promote drainage. Traditional deck construction techniques are used with Oz-Deck™ which makes it very easy to adjust for varying grade changes. This technique is posts that support beams, joists sit on the beams and the deck boards are fastened to the joists. After driving the Oz-Post® in the ground string lines are strung across all of the Oz-Deck™ systems at the desired height with a string level. This is an important step because this will make your deck posts all level. Simply measure from the string line to the base of the Oz-Post® and cut a piece of 4×4 to the exact length. Repeat this for all posts. When this is complete your deck foundation is level with no digging, no concrete, and no mess. The posts are now ready for the beams to be installed. This process is very fast and does not require high skill levels. Please refer to the instruction manual for more information. We also have a 30 min video on how to build a deck that can provide you with many of the tricks of the trade for your project. This video is available on You Tube, Amazon or by calling our office (866) 422-0751.
How high can I build my deck with Oz-Deck™?
Oz-Deck™ system can be used for decks that are up to 10’ high. 2’x2’ angled cross braces are required for all decks over 5’ in height. Note: Cross braces are also recommended for decks that are built with ledger boards and post holes.
Does the Oz-Deck™ Foundation System meet building codes?
When used according to Oz-Deck™ system recommendations, the Oz-Deck™ Foundation System conforms to all national and regional building codes when the deck is unattached from the house. Even though a state may have one building code, the city/county may choose to impose greater regulations and restrictions. The building code in your area may not expressly provide options for Oz-Deck™ installations. This does NOT mean that you can not use Oz-Deck™ in your area. In your application simply include a copy of the specifications and products that you plan to use to make the process move quickly When built according to Oz-Deck™ system plan specifications, the Oz-Deck™ system meets structural requirements for deck construction. They are strong, durable, and safe. Oz-Deck™ is designed to meet a minimum load rating of 52 lbs. per square foot.
What is the difference between Oz-Deck™ and pre-cast concrete deck blocks or pier blocks?
The main difference between deck blocks/pier blocks and Oz-Deck™ is the construction technique for building the structure of the deck. Deck blocks do not use beams to support the joist structure therefore deck blocks are required under every joist on no greater than 5’ spacing. For the average deck this requirement can add up to be twice as many deck blocks than Oz-Deck™ system for the same size deck. Deck blocks are also heavy and difficult to move into location and must be located perfectly level and in line under every joist. This is a time consuming and tedious task. Getting the deck joist framing square is also challenging with this construction technique. Because Oz-Deck™ uses traditional building techniques utilizing plans from deck magazines, books and web sites is easy to do. The only difference will be that with Oz-Deck™ there may be an extra beam. One other advantage is that Oz-Deck™ offers lateral load strength and substantial vertical up load resistance. Because the wood support posts are attached securely to the Oz-Post® there is no risk of the post becoming dislodged with the support. Oz-Post® also deliver substantial lateral load strength to keep long support posts stable. Deck piers offer no lateral load strength and no vertical load resistance because the support post or joist simply sits on the deck pier.
Is Oz-Deck™ available for post sizes other than 4×4?
Yes, Oz-Deck™ is now available for posts that are 4×4 and 6×6. Please take a look at our product page for more information regarding the T4-850 and T6-700 posts which are used in conjunction with the Oz-Deck™ plate.
What beam and joist sizes should I use?
For the beams it is recommended to nail 2 – 2×8 boards together to make the beam and rest them on top of the post and attach with steel connectors. 2×6 boards can also be used but may require closer spacing of beams to comply with your local building code. If the deck is going to be very low profile the beams can be mounted on the sides of the posts and attached with large bolts and/or brackets. Spacing between the boards should follow building code and manufacturers guidelines (for composite decking). Generally 2×6 decking boards can be on 24” centers and 5/4” and composite decking should be on 16” centers.
Can I install a hot tub with Oz-Deck™?
Yes, Oz-Deck™ Foundation System can be used to support the load of a hot tub. In the area where the hot tub is going to be located it is required that the beam and post spacing be decreased to 3’ centers. Also it is recommended to install extra Oz-Deck™ plates so that there is a minimum of 6 under most standard hot tubs. For larger tubs or other special projects call customer service.
How long does the Oz-Deck™ system take to install?
The actual installation of an Oz-Deck™ is about 2 min. but for project planning about an allocation of 10-15 min each post should be expected. So for a standard 12’ x 12’ deck that will require 9 Oz-Deck™ plates you should have all of the piers in place in about 2 ½ hours. We have taken into account the time to run string lines and locate the post locations and cutting the posts to the proper height. It is assumed that this process is being done by two people. After the posts are in the rest of the project is very fast. Making the framing for the deck and squaring it up is easy and then all that is left is the deck boards. A basic 12’ x 12’ can easily be completed in one day by two people.
What does frost heaving and thawing mean?
Frost heave is caused by water that is trapped underground in layers of soil that have become frozen. When the water freezes it expands causing the surface to move vertically. This natural occurrence can cause the surface to move up to ½” in the winter and back to the original location in the spring when the frost thaws. Even if you live in a warmer climate like Texas, the principles are the same. The soil will expand and contract with temperature and moisture changes in the soil. This is less of a problem in these climates, but movement can occur.
What effects does frost have on conventional deck construction?
When footings are not buried below the frost line or without smooth edges, damage can occur. During cold seasons, ice lenses form, exerting pressure against the rough edges of the concrete post, forcing it upward. A pocket will form under the post where the soil is not affected by frost. Dirt particles and water will then accumulate into this pocket. During the spring thaw, it is likely that the post will not return to its original position (due to the accumulation of soil deposits). When repeated throughout the life of the deck, this process of lifting the post can cause significant damage to the structural integrity of the deck.
How is frost heave prevented?
The standard method is to anchor the post down by digging a large hole to or below the frost line. The shape of the hole should be like a bell. The hole must wider at the bottom than at the top. This is difficult to do but is typically required by building codes. If this is not done correctly, there will be heaving over time which could damage your structure. Building inspectors will often require “hole” inspections to make sure that it has been dug correctly significantly adding to the time necessary to build your deck.
What effects does frost have on the Oz-Deck™ Foundation System?
The Oz-Deck™ system performs excellent in frost areas. The compaction of the soil, long fins and large heavy weight distribution plate performs equally as well as other post foundation methods. The deck may move slightly up and down through seasonal cycles. This up down movement is very minimal (it may not even occur) and will not be noticeable.
Will my deck move sideways or pull from the house?
No. When frost heave occurs, the forces in the ground have nowhere to go except up. The deck may move slightly up and down through seasonal cycles, but not from side to side. This up down movement is very minimal and will not be noticeable. The long wide anchor in the ground prevents any side to side movement. A deck built with Oz-Deck™ will not move away from the house when installed properly.
Should I put anything under the Oz-Deck™ piers?
It’s not necessary to put anything under the Oz-Deck™ piers. They can sit directly on top of the soil or grass. The use of a jackhammer to install the Oz-Deck™ post is recommended because as the Oz-Post® reaches the Oz-Deck™ plate it compacts the top soil and removes any air pockets in the soil providing a sturdy foundation. If you want to put something on the ground you can put fine gravel on the surface.
Will my deck sink?
Even on poor soil conditions, your deck will not sink. Oz-Deck™ foundation system is designed to distribute weight EVENLY across the ground. It is essential that you follow the recommended spacing of Oz-Deck™ piers. Oz-Deck™ compacts the soil with the force and vibrations of the jackhammer installation so even poor soils are stabilized with the Oz-Deck™ system. Oz-Posts have been utilized in wetlands and marshy areas with excellent long term results. If you have questions in regards to the suitability of Oz-Deck™ for your project feel free to call our customer service department for assistance.
My local building code requires footings. What do I do now?
The traditional method for installing a deck is to dig a hole and set a footing. There are many new/alternative products that are available that may not be expressly written into the building code that can still be used. The building codes have been developed over many years and are intended to set standards for construction. It takes many years for new products to get written into the code but that does not mean that they cannot be utilized. In most cases your local building department will accept other construction methods as long as you provide if requested any additional engineering documentation that they may require. We are not aware of any situation where Oz-Deck™ system has not been approved for a deck project. In rare circumstances the building department has required post spacing that is different than our recommendations but this was mostly due to unique site conditions that are not common for most installations. In frost prone areas is important that make it clear that you will be building a “Floating Deck” and that you will not be attaching the deck to the house. It is extremely unusual for a local building code to require footings for all types of deck construction. Typically footings are required if the deck is attached to a fixed object, similar to a house. A floating foundation is a different building method and clarification with the inspector should resolve any potential problems. The inspector may also require additional technical information that is available in our Download section.
Can I use Oz-Deck™ for a gazebo or open roof structure?
Open roof structures can act like an umbrella can cause uplift in high wind. Oz-Post® may not offer adequate uplift resistance for this type of roof structure. Call our customer service line with details of your project if you are unsure if your project will be unsuitable for Oz-Deck™. Open arbors and pergolas where wind can easily pass through can be built with Oz-Deck™ also closed structures like a garden shed are acceptable.
Hello Fellow Fencers
When introducing a steel fence, there might be a zone where posts for the steel fence cross black-top. On the off chance that you as of now have a mallet drill, that will be fine for only a post or two. Notwithstanding, lease a little jackhammer for the venture from a temporary worker rental outlet in your general vicinity in the event that you have to introduce many steel fence posts, since it will make the task take significantly less time.
Steel wall may every so often sit over black-top.This is a job for a professional when it comes to choosing paving contractors in Houston Tx we always trust the Preferred Asphalt Pros. Imprint the zone for the opening for the steel fence post with chalk. . choose Spot the tip of the jackhammer or mallet drill in the focal point of the opening. Slice through the black-top. Enlarge by turning the bit until the entirety of the black-top in the zone for the steel fence post has been evacuated. Open a region large enough for the fence present digger on uncover the rock and soil in the gap.
Utilize the virus etch and elastic made a beeline for evacuate modest quantities of black-top around the opening and make a well put together to the gap. Undercut the opening by removing more from the base of the black-top than the top.
Utilize the fence present digger on make the opening 2 feet down.
Spot the steel fence post into the opening. Measure the measure of the steel fence post that is over the black-top surface. This estimation ought to be equivalent to the entirety of the other steel fence posts. Include or evacuate soil in the base of the opening until the steel fence post is a similar tallness over the ground as every single other post.
Blend the solid blend as per bundle bearings. Spot paper on the encompassing black-top to forestall spills of cement on the black-top. Empty cement into the gap around the steel fence post. Fill the gap to the edge of the base of the encompassing black-top. There ought to be a space 2 to 4 crawls from the highest point of the opening.
Spot the level on the steel fence post to guarantee that it is plumb. Pivot the level right around the steel fence post to guarantee plumb on all sides. Hold in position until the solid has sufficiently solidified to hold the steel fence post in position. Evacuate the paper.
Utilize a trowel to press the fix into the rest of the space around the steel fence post with black-top virus fix. Quill the edge to streamline the black-top virus fix the current black-top.
How to Install a Chain-Link Fence Post in Asphalt
Mark the area for the hole for the chain link fence post with chalk.
Place the tip of the jackhammer or hammer drill in the center of the hole. Cut through the asphalt. Widen by turning the bit until all of the asphalt in the area for the chain link fence post has been removed. Open an area big enough for the fence post digger to dig out the gravel and soil in the hole.
Use the cold chisel and rubber-headed hammer to remove small amounts of asphalt around the opening and create a clean cut to the hole. Undercut the hole by cutting more away from the bottom of the asphalt than the top.
Use the fence post digger to make the hole 2 feet deep.
Place the chain link fence post into the hole. Measure the amount of the chain link fence post that is above the asphalt surface. This measurement should be the same as all of the other chain link fence posts. Add or remove soil in the bottom of the hole until the chain link fence post is the same height above the ground as all other posts.
Mix the concrete mix according to package directions. Place newspaper on the surrounding asphalt to prevent spills of concrete on the asphalt. Pour concrete into the hole around the chain link fence post. Fill the hole to the edge of the bottom of the surrounding asphalt. There should be a space 2 to 4 inches from the top of the hole.
Place the level on the chain link fence post to ensure that it is plumb. Rotate the level all the way around the chain link fence post to ensure plumb on all sides. Hold in position until the concrete has firmed enough to hold the chain link fence post in position. Remove the newspaper.
Use a trowel to press the patch into the remaining space around the chain link fence post with asphalt cold patch. Feather the edge to smooth the asphalt cold patch over the existing asphalt.
Phrase: Fence post on blacktop
|Fence post on blacktop|
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|Fence post on blacktop|
|Fence post on blacktop|